Ideology of special kind of yarn

Slub & Fancy Yarn

GMT 12:16 2016 Tuesday ,23 February

Sriyadithatextile - Slub & Fancy Yarn

Mr. Srinivasarao Garine - QM at Vasantha Industries , Guntur
TFA

A most special variety of yarn structure is “SLUB Yarn” or “FANCY  Yarn”.  Normally if any random thick & thin places are there in normal yarn means, it is considered as fault. But at the same time, we can purposely prepare a periodical defined dimension thick & thin places in the yarn during spinning process, which is treated as a special kind of yarn as Fancy yarn. In this exlusive interaction with Mr. Srinivasarao  Garine – Quality Manager at M/s. Vasantha Industries, Guntur – given an ideology for SLUB & FANCY Yarns.

Normally, Slub specifications consists of three main dimensions & they are,

  1. Slub length (in cm)
  2. Slub diameter (in %)
  3. Number of Slubs per meter (Numbers)

According the end use requirement & appearance of the final fabric, the above specifications are decided by the consumers.

We can prepare SLUB yarn with the help of Slub attachment systems like SKAAT, Lakshmi  Caipo

Slub effects :

There are four basic slubbing effects :

  1. Slub
  2. Multi-count
  3. Multi-twist
  4. Reverse slub.

The various combinations among these four can create infinite yarn and fabric designs.

The Slub effect is obtained through continuous variations on the main draft. Usually slubs have lengths between 30 to 100 mm, but in some cases slubs are even shorter to produce an effect called “malfile” i.e., small and frequent slubs that create an effect of natural irregularity.

As the Slub effect, the Reverse Slub one is obtained with a drafting variation that, in this case, is negative and reduces yarn thickness.

The Multi-count effect is obtained through prolonged variations of the main draft. The result is a yarn that has different counts. Usually this effect is used together with the multi-twist effect in order to obtain interesting effects on the fabric.

The Multi-twist effect entails twist variations that change the yarn diameter and its response to dyeing. This creates interesting light and dark areas in the yarn and consequently, in the final product.

Slub specifications can be verified by using USTER TESTER - 5

Some of the technical terms involved in SLUB specifications testing;

Slub distance

The slub distance is measured between the end of a previous slub to the start of the subsequent slub. All slub distances plus all slub lengths together will add up to the overall test length. If two or more populations are defined, the slub distance is defined within the same population. If required, the mean slub distance between consecutive slubs can be evaluated. 

Mass decrease

Mass decreases before and after a slub can lead to severe weak places in the yarn. They are often related to the settings of the slub yarn device used and / or the spinning machine. Therefore, this parameter is an important quality characteristic of a slub yarn as it can lead to severe problems in the further processing of the yarn. For this evaluation, only mass decreases within a distance of three centimeters and a mass decrease of -30% before or after a slub are evaluated. The starting points of this distance are at the ends and the beginning of the slubs.

Percentage slub length / slub distance / mass increase

This value is equivalent to the percentage of the slub lengths and slub distances compared to the overall length of the measured yarn or the mass increases of the slubs compared to the overall mass of the yarn.

Count of slub / base yarn

Usually, the nominal count of a slub yarn consists of a mean value of the overall mass per unit length. With the USTER FANCY YARN PROFILE, it is possible to separate the count of the slubs from the count of the base yarn, in order to describe the yarn more accurately. 

Fancy Yarn Configuration

This is the overall definition, how a slub yarn should be evaluated regarding the reference level, the setting of a limit to separate slubs from random thick places (boundary) and the definition of populations. This configuration is done in the settings of the USTER TESTER 5 by the operator depending on the appearance of the slub yarn and the aim of the evaluation. In the Fancy Yarn Configuration dialog it is possible to adjust the reference line if required, to define boundaries, to mark populations, to save and to change configurations and apply them to a tested sample. 

Outliers

These are slubs that are located above the defined boundary, but do not belong to any population, if populations are defined. If no populations are defined, no outliers can be analyzed. 

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